Climb Grossglockner

A Quick Guide to Climbing Grossglockner

Grossglockner, Austria’s highest peak at 3,798 meters, tops the wishlist of many European mountain lovers. Its prominent shape and accessibility, with just the right amount of challenging sections, make it an attractive next step in the world of mountaineering after outgrowing technical mountain trails and via ferratas.

However, unless someone received a thorough mountaineering education, it goes against the advice that they should undertake this climb by themselves without acquiring the services of a guide. Grossglockner presents some objective dangers and technical challenges not found on typical hiking or secured climbing paths.

Grossglockner Summit Routes

There are two main routes that climbers use to summit Grossglockner.

1. The Normal Route: This route is favored for accessibility, beginning from the valley of Kals (Lucknerhaus) or the valley of Heiligenblut and converging at the Erzherzog Johann Hut. It’s marked by scenic trails, glacier crossing, and a climbing grade of Class II per UIAA, making it suitable for the majority of climbers opting to summit Austria’s highest peak. However, it’s not to be underestimated as glacier crossing requires climbers to be well-versed in techniques and maneuvers used for saving from crevasses.

2. Stüdlgrat Route: Offers a more technical ascent, requiring advanced climbing skills, belaying techniques, and full confidence in your abilities to overcome the most technically challenging sections. It’s known for its Class III and IV sections per UIAA on the southwest ridge, presenting a formidable challenge to more experienced climbers with proper equipment.

Preparation and Safety

Climbing Grossglockner requires good fitness and familiarity with alpine safety techniques. Climbers must equip themselves with appropriate gear and possess the skills to navigate its technical difficulties.

Neither of the two routes above should be undertaken by a solo climber. With glacier crossings, there’s always the danger of falling into hidden glacial crevasses, which might only be prevented by being tied to another climber or a guide.

If you have no previous experience with alpinism or even a proper mountaineering education, your safest option is to join a guided climb of Grossglockner.

Mountain Huts

Due to significant elevation gain and altitude, most climbers ascending the Grossglockner make it a 2-day expedition, spending the night at either Stüdlhütte or Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte. These huts need to be booked well in advance despite their large capacities.

Stüdlhütte is typically used by climbers ascending the Stüdlgrat and for winter ascents when Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte is closed. The latter lies only 250 meters below the summit of Grossglockner, making it a more suitable starting point for the final push on the second day of the normal route, as climbers still have the entire descent ahead of them.

Climbing Season

Ascending the Grossglockner is possible almost year-round, mostly limited by hut openings for guided tours. Therefore, the summer climbing season lasts from mid-June to mid-October, while the winter climbing season is fixed between the beginning of March and the beginning of May.

Gear and Equipment

For a successful climb on Grossglockner, your equipment checklist should include:

• Warm mountaineering boots compatible with your crampons
• Approach shoes for technical climbing (for Stüdlgrat)
• Helmet for protection
• Harness for when you tie yourself to other climbers
• Crampons for traction on ice
• Ice axe for stopping yourself in case of a fall
• Ropes and carabiners for safety and navigation
• Belay device for controlled descents and belaying
• Weather-appropriate clothing to protect against the elements
• Sleeping liner to spend the night in the hut
• First aid kit